by Alexandre Truffer
appeared in Vinum Magazine 2017 - 01
Clos Mogador, Priorat
From heat comes finesse
“The main difficulty in Priorat lies in the harshness of the climate,” René Barbier explains to the twenty or so aficionados gathered for an exceptional Clos Mogador vertical. “It hardly ever rains, sometimes barely 200 millimeters a year. Yet Grenache vines have been growing for centuries in this hostile environment. You have to understand that the vine takes root in the schist, into which the plant burrows deeply and from which it draws the necessary water,” continues this driving force behind Priorat, Spain's trendiest wine region...