by Alexandre Ma and Jean-Baptiste Thial de Bordenave
appeared in La Revue du vin de France 2019 - 02
A Catalan Grenache as proud as a pope
Unearthed by Alexandre Ma, this 100 96 Grenache cuvée created in 2015 at Clos Mogador is reminiscent in its aromatics of the great Châteauneufs de Rayas.
Jean-Baptiste Thial de Bordenave is charmed.
Alexandre Ma: Dear Jean-Baptiste, I've brought you a Montsant from Catalonia, 100% Grenache. I know you're a big fan of Grenache in the style of Château Rayas, and I'd love to hear your impressions of this Clos Mogador wine.
Jean-Baptiste Thial de Bordenave: A Clos Mogador montsant? Of course, I'm familiar with this legendary Barbier family estate, which produces a superb red called Espectacle. But I've never tasted the cuvée Com Tu...
AM.: That's normal. This cuvée is a recent creation. Its first vintage is 2015. I discovered it by chance at a wine shop in Falset, in the province of Tarragona, where I often go for my job.
JB.: The Clos Mogador terroir is famous for its schist soils. Are we on the same type of terroir here?
AM: Not exactly. Most of the Clos Mogador vineyard is in the village of Gratallops, where the soil is rich in schist, but this is different. The vines that give rise to this Com Tu cuvée are planted in the commune of La Figuera, at an altitude of 580 meters. This is the coolest part of the Montsant appellation. We're here on white and brown clay, and white limestone.
JB.: My dear Alexandre, that's enough talking now. Let's taste this wine!